The Power of Perspective

A reason to climb mountains

Perspective is everything when you are experiencing life’s challenges.

- Joni Eareckson Tada

As promised last week, this is my most memorable challenge, the one I savour when I need to remind myself ‘I can do hard things!’

A week of carefully curated hikes in Zion National Park, Utah is the plan. But this is the main event for me, the hike that I have come to do. I have trained long and hard to be able to tackle this beast, this iconic and thrilling hike, worthy of its inclusion on many a bucket list.

I've done my research. I've watched the videos.

I know we'll be on the sun-baked side of the canyon enduring July temperatures of 100 degrees Fahrenheit. I know it's 2.5 miles straight up. Is this Aussie prepared for the strenuous and mentally challenging switchbacks and dizzying drop-offs to reach the majestic monolith? We're about to find out.

Once again an early breakfast and the first shuttle to our starting point. I feel the butterflies in my tummy. I am so excited and eager to get going. We get off the shuttle at the Zion Lodge and do a final check of water, food etc at this last 'watering hole'.

5 hours! Here we go!

We cross the footbridge over the north fork of the Virgin River, turn right to follow the West Rim trail and leave the early morning coolness of the valley floor.

That early morning tranquillity of the normally heavily trafficked out and back trail makes for a great start. At this stage, the trail is very well-maintained, pretty wide and easy to navigate.

Even as we hike the relatively easy first part, we begin our consistent hydration with sips of already warming water from our backpack hydration bladder.

We take a moment to glance back at the river, shimmering in the perfect morning light. It's lined with cooling cottonwoods, pinyon pines and Utah junipers. I bet they are glad to be close to a water source in this dehydrated desert habitat.

A fleeting look skywards reveals determined trees clinging persistently to cracks in the sheer sandstone cliffs; their intense emerald green contrasting with the iron-oxide stained layers of this geological masterpiece: unparalleled aesthetics of tenacious but fragile Nature against a backdrop of rugged Geological sculpturing.

Don't look up for too long! Work to do!

The gentle trail gives way to switchbacks which allow the trail to commence the steep canyon-wall climb in earnest. Even this early, the heat is climbing along with us, but very few humans are.

A mile into the hike, we gladly enter aptly named Refrigerator Canyon, a deep slot canyon between Angels Landing and Cathedral Mountain. This unique ravine is a most welcome reprieve from the blaze of full sun. It's shaded, pleasantly cool and walking is easier for just a short time.

Time to allow the cooling breezes to dry the perspiration.

Time to admire the lush vegetation of this consistently cooler climate.

Time to rest and regroup.

Time to move on.

As we exit Refrigerator Canyon, we’ve already ascended 1,000 feet.

The steepness and the sweltering heat are kicking in. Glad we started early.

The trail continues its normal switchbacks, each turn allowing a catch of breath and a glimpse of the splendid scenery unfolding as we climb.

The final ascent is a set of 21 tight, very steep switchbacks called Walter's Wiggles. I am in awe of Walter, the first superintendent of Zion, who created this zigzagging engineering marvel in 1926. Actually, it was created for horses to access Cabin Spring on the West Rim Trail, but we mere mortals are grateful.

As we 'Squiggle the Wiggles', hearts are pumping, thighs and calves are feeling the burn.

You just have to put your head down and pace yourself to the top.

Ascending the wiggles in one go or taking as many short rests as required puts you on top of the ridge and it seems for a moment - on top of the world! This broad sandy area, Scouts Landing, is the junction between the Angels Landing Trail to the right or onwards on the West Rim Trail to the left.

It is where I can finally relax, breathe, and start to drink in the heart-in-your-mouth spectacular views. Every step of this trail, every one-foot-in-front-of-the-other moment, every sip of warm, plastic-tasting but hydrating water is worth this once-in-a-lifetime experience.

We relax in the shade of a tree, watching the cheeky chipmunks scurry around after food. They will even help themselves to an open backpack if possible. Too cute!

Now it's time to check out the real deal, the ultimate ascent to Angel's Landing, given its name by a 1916 explorer who declared 'only an angel could land on it.'

Our first taste of this 'scariest hike in America' is the clamber around the rock to Scout's Lookout using the chains that are bolted into the stone to keep from sliding over the edge of the cliff to the valley floor a mere 1,500 feet below! (altitude is actually 5,350 feet). Lean into the rock. Hang on to anything except a piece of tenuous vegetation. Keep moving.

Scout's Lookout is where you sit and contemplate the last half mile of the hike. It's where your mind weighs up the degree of difficulty of the rest of the hike.

It's also the turnaround point for many who know their limits. Hence the name 'Chicken's Landing'.

Go or No Go! Read the warning sign carefully.

Right! Here goes!

We navigate the half-mile-long narrow fin of sandstone at vertiginous elevations.

It's then an arduous climb up the ridiculously steep and narrow Hogsback to mount the 'landing'.

Views! What views?

Unlimited views if you can get yourself to look anywhere but at the piece of sandstone under your feet and then the very next one and the one after that.

Do the chains or carved steps ease the mind? Not sure but so grateful for the awesome people who put them there in the first place.

I love the advice to not stand near the edge at all times. It's all edge!

We're here!

Find a solid piece of rock and sit. Breathe.

Lift my gaze from my feet. Be still my beating heart!

There are no words for the sublime spectacle of geological splendour spreading out before me.

Utter tranquillity at the top of the world. I get to savour it in silence, to ponder the meaning of life in peace for the briefest of moments.

Soak it all in for now. Climbers are sure to be on their way to stake a claim to their moment on the mountain. The stairway to Heaven is going to get really congested real soon. Time to head back to the relative safety of Scout's Landing.

Still have to be super careful on the descent.

A final 'we did it' moment before heading back to the valley floor. One more moment to soak up the once-in-a-lifetime awesomeness of this landscape and to appreciate a hiking buddy who constantly challenges me to adventure.

Remember…

The best view comes after the hardest climb - Unknown